FAQ

Leather FAQ:

  • I would like an item but I don't see it listed. Can you make me one?

Custom orders are always welcome! New products are being added all the time, but please contact me if you don't see what you're looking for. If you can imagine it, I can probably make it. There is never an extra charge for custom colors. Custom designed, sized or personalized items can be made for a very reasonable amount.

  • Why is the leather so stiff?

Quality leather items start out rather stiff. They will soften and become more pliable with use . The leather becomes "broken in" just like a new pair of boots or shoes. Each item is designed to last a lifetime! Inferior products are often times soft and flexible when they are new, but they break down quickly.

  • Can I speed up the "break in" process?

Bending and flexing the leather by hand can help the process. The simplest way is just to use the items as they were intended to be used.

  • What colors are available?

Nearly any color imaginable! Leather does not always accept the dye exactly the same way each time, so there may be some slight variations in the colors. If you don't see a color listed, just ask.

  • Do I need to do anything to treat the leather?

The leather has been conditioned before you receive the item and sealed so it is water resistant. Using a leather conditioner is highly recommended annually, or more often if the item gets a lot of use. There are many brands of leather conditioner that can be used. I prefer Lexol conditioners and cleaners.

  • Is it REAL leather?

Yes! Everything I make is 100% full grain leather. Leather can be divided into several basic categories. Full grain leather is the top layer of the hide and the best quality. Top grain leather is the next best (but not good enough for my products!) and is made from the upper 2/3rds of a hide. Most items made from the rather vague claim of "Genuine Leather" is typically made from leather "splits". There are also man made leather products called "Bonded Leather". This is the leather equivalent of particle board, and is the weakest of all leathers. You will not find cheap imported 'Pleather' or vinyl products anywhere on this site!

  • What do I do if my leather item should ever break or malfunction?

Simply contact me and send it back. I will repair or replace it for free for life! *Does not apply to wax or clamp products.

  • Is the leather waterproof?

Each item has been sealed to make it water resistant, but not quite water proof. If an item should get wet, its best to let it air dry naturally. Using heat or other artificial means of drying are NOT recommended and can cause the leather to shrink. Wet leather should be handled with care until it dries to avoid stretching or distorting the item.



Wax FAQ:

  • What kind of wax are your candles?

We offer both low temp paraffin and natural soy blends.

  • Do different types of wax melt at different temperatures?

Very much so. From lowest to highest would be Soy/Bayberry/Palm, Paraffin, Beeswax, Gel (DO NOT USE GEL CANDLES!!!!). Natural vegetable waxes like bayberry, soy, etc are the softest and melt around 100-130 degrees. Pure paraffin with no additives is generally around 130-135. Depending on the additives it can get as high as 140-165. Beeswax is around 145, gel candles can be 150 and up. Beeswax and gel are both generally considered too hot for wax play.

  • What melting point of wax would you recommend for beginners in Wax Play?

As a rough guideline, the lower the melting point the better for starting out. Everybody is different and has varying pain tolerances so some amount of experimentation is in order. A waxes melting point is only a guideline for its suitability though. Its a laboratory measurement used to determine the lowest point as which the wax TOTALLY liquefies. A drop of wax from a burning candle isn't the same as a 100% molten wax pool. The flip side of that is that a burning candle can have a MUCH hotter pool of wax on the surface if its allowed to burn for awhile.

  • Can I use these candles for massage?

Absolutely! The tins are great for massage. The wax stays nice and soft with just body temperature. They are available in scented and unscented (see next question about scents).

  • Should I use scented or unscented candles?

Candle scents vary quite a bit. Some people can have allergic reactions to the scent oils, others don't. Unfortunately there isn't a cut and dry answer to this one. If you are unsure, unscented is probably the way to go. Testing a potential "play candle" with a few drops on the inner wrist is the best way to determine if it will work.

  • Are certain colors hotter than others?

No. Melting points are determined by the wax and any additives, NOT by the color. It seems to be a long standing myth that dark red, blue or black candles are hotter than pink, tan or lighter shades. A candle that melts at 120 degrees will still melt at 120 regardless of whether its black, blue, green, yellow, tan, etc. Darker colours can retain their warmth a bit longer than lighter colours, but the difference is typically very minor.

  • Does the scent or color in candles affect the temperature/melting point?

Yes it does. Scents, oils, dyes, pigments and (some) additives will raise the melting point of all waxes. Candle scents typically increase the melting point by 3-5 degrees. Dye will increase the melting point by 1-3 degrees.

  • Is there a way to keep from making a mess on the bed/floor/wherever?

In short... no! Drop cloths, tarps, old sheets, cardboard, etc. usually helps quite a bit, but lets be honest.... its messy. Be aware that cloth will NOT stop molten wax from seeping through onto and into whatever is under it. Soy wax is about as difficult to remove as spilled vegetable oil on a t-shirt. Paraffin is similar to removing motor oil from the same shirt. Dyes and some scents will also likely leave stains. I have found that a thin plastic drop cloth under an old sheet works quite well.

  • Will the wax stain fabric?

The short answer is... possibly. The "naked" wax without scent or dye is the least likely to stain, but its always possible. Whenever possible, try to avoid getting wax on any clothing or fabric thats important to you. Also be aware that dripping wax onto clothing of any kind can be hazardous. Synthetic fabrics can melt and any fabric can trap heat potentially causing burns.

  • Is there any prep work you should do before playing with wax?

Petroleum jelly & cocoa butter, type products will lessen the sting of the wax a little bit and also make removal a bit easier. These are not strictly necessary, more of personal preference. It will also make wax removal from hairy subjects a bit easier. Soy waxes are generally easier to remove than paraffin.